Sunday, February 12, 2012

Wonderful Food in Macau

I have never explored the food in Macau before, so this was really an eye-opener for me. Armed with research information I got from watching a TV documentary, I set out in search of all the good recommended food in Macau.



Upon arrival in the early morning, we just walked across the road from the Ferry Terminal and found this little cafe open, while most shops were still closed. We were hungry, so we just went in and ordered. The famous Macau Pork Chop sandwich was better than those we tried in Hong Kong. However, the porridge were quite ordinary.



Just around the corner from the cafe, we took mini Bus No. 8 to the Three Lamps District (三盞燈) at Rotunda De Carlos Da Maia.


Here at the Three Lamps District, it was really happening. Not only can you find a street market selling all kinds of vegetables, poultry and seafood, there are also many stalls and shops selling cooked food, like this one selling dim sum.


And several stalls selling roast meats and stewed chicken feet and other innards.



But we had just one purpose going there, and that is to find this highly recommended stall serving Pig Trotters stewed with ginger in black vinegar (豬腳姜醋). It was easy to find. The first stall facing the little park. And the food was simply awesome!


The pig trotters were well cooked and tender and tasty. The vinegar taste was strong but not overpowering. The pig intestines, pig stomach and pig ears were succulent and juicy with taste. The hard-boiled eggs was good too as the vinegar had penetrated into the yolk. But the best was still the ginger. According to the owner, the ginger is specially commissioned for his stall. They are grown specially to ensure the ginger is not too old and not too fibrous. It was like eating a sweet potato. The ginger was powdery with little or no fibres at all. And they were cooked just right, with the sweetness from the vinegar seeped in.


Everyone who goes to Macau must seek out this stall and try it. An absolute must try!


You will also find this confectionery at the Three Lamps District. Some of the biscuits are quite interesting so we bought some. But this is not where you can find the best biscuits, and the almond biscuits were quite ordinary.



 Another stall that caught my eye is this fruit stall that sells jackfruit and durians.


A short walk away, at the junction of Rua da Ribeira do Patane and Avenida de Horte e Costa, just across from the Red Market (Mercado Vermelho) we found this little cafe that serves pretty interesting fare.




My son went for the Tomato and Ham macaroni, while I had the stewed beef noodles. Both were quite ordinary and nothing to rave about. What was unusual was the Four Treasures Noodles (四寶丸麵). Each of the four fishballs had different fillings, including one that was filled with crab roe.



But the best thing about Macau is definitely the Portuguese Egg Tarts by Lord Stow's Bakery in Coloane  Village.




These egg tarts are to die for! What you get elsewhere can never measure up to the original. Not even close. The pastry was flaky and crispy. The egg custard filling was just right, not too sweet, and scorched perfectly giving it a slightly burnt taste. Simply excellent.



Just imagine, on a cold, windy night, sitting at a marble table by the sea with a box of Lord Stow's Portuguese Egg Tarts, fresh out of the oven, so fragrant and steaming hot. This is what life is all about.
   

Monday, January 30, 2012

Macau

The last time that I was in Macau was in 1984. So much would have changed in those 27 years, that I was really looking forward to my visit Macau again. It's very convenient now, there is a ferry terminal in Kowloon and another on Hong Kong island. The turbojet ferry takes about 1 hour from Kowloon to Macau.





Arriving at the Macau Ferry Terminal, do remember that as a foreign visitor, you need to fill up the immigration card. Near the terminal you will find Fisherman's Wharf. However, there is not much to see as it looks more like a white elephant, only few shops and eateries are open.


What excited me more was the hotel that we were staying in. I read about it in a Travel magazine and visited the hotel in 1984 to have tea on the terrace and watch the sun set. It had left a very memorable impression and it is the same this time. The Pousada de Sao Tiago, located at the end of Avenida da Republica near Barra Square, was originally a fortress built by the Portuguese in the early 17th century to defend Macau against hostile European nations and local pirates. Now it has been transformed into a charming hotel.






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Just look at the room, it is almost like a junior suite, with adjoining sitting area. They even have a jacuzzi and steam shower in the large bathroom. If we had more time, I would have just stayed in the room and refused to go out.






And you can watch the beautiful sunset from the terrace while enjoying a warm cup of tea. Simply unbeatable.  Living the "high" life!





From the hotel, following the Macau World Heritage trail and a short walk away is the A-ma Temple. It is an old temple that existed even before the city of Macau came into being.







After the temple, we visited the Mandarin's House, which was built before 1869. This is a traditional Chinese residence of prominent Chinese literary figure Zheng Guanying. The house is huge, consisting of several courtyards and many rooms.



St. Lawrence Church, built by the Jesuits in the mid-16th century, is one of the oldest churches in Macau.



The Dom Pedro V Theatre, built in 1860, was the first western-style theatre in China. Today, it remains a venue for important public events and celebrations. However, when were we there, it was closed for renovations.



In the same area, you can find the St. Augustine's Church and the St. Joseph's Seminary.



One place you will not miss is the Senado Square in downtown Macau. It is almost like the urban centre of Macau for centuries. Surrounded by pastel-coloured neo-classical buildings, it gives the impression of a Mediterranean atmosphere.



Walking up the hill from Senado Square, a pretty steep climb indeed, you will arrive at the old Mount Fortress. This was the city's principal military defense structure. It is quite a beautiful view from the top of the fortress. You can almost see the whole of Macau from here.







Walking down the hill on the other side, you will arrive at the most famous landmark of Macau, the ruins of St. Paul's, or rather the façade of what was originally the Church of Mater Dei built between 1602 and 1640.




Eventually, walking down the Rua de S Paulo, you will arrive back at the Senado Square.



If you are like me and are interested fresh produce, you can visit the Red Market at Avenida de Horta e Costa. It has 3 levels of what you can find in a wet market, ranging from vegetables to meats to seafood. From there a short walk will bring you to Rotunda de Carlos da Maia (Three Lamps District) which has a open street market. I simply love that place.



Crossing the Macau-Taipa Bridge into Taipa and Coloane, you will find more modern buildings. This is where all the big, new casino hotels are situated at. The City of Dreams, Grand Hyatt Macau, Hard Rock Hotel, Four Seasons Hotel and the Venetian Macau are all found here.





Inside the Venetian Macau, you will be mesmerized by all the gold. Everything looks golden from the ceiling to the pillars to the various structures. Truly beautiful. And the 2nd level shopping mall is huge, with all kinds of shops and eateries. And just like Venice, there is a canal running through the entire floor with gondolas rides.












And since we were already in Coloane, we went to the Coloane Village at the South-western tip of the island. There, along the Avenida Cinco De Outubro, you will see a narrow straits, across at which is China's Zhuhai City.




It was a wonderful 2 days in Macau, although I wished I had more time. In my next post, I will tell you all about the fantastic food that I found in this former Portuguese Colony.